Day 16, Wednesday,
9/23, To Memphis and Introspection
We hightailed back north to Memphis. Memphis is the
unofficial capital of the Mississippi delta, where financiers became rich off
of Mississippi cotton and rock n’ rollers like Elvis were inspired by blues
songs that were relief for the hired hands picking cotton.
Day 16 was some day. We drove from poorest Clarksdale to
Memphis for Yom Kippur services at Temple Israel, one of the wealthiest
congregations in the country, to the National Civil Rights Museum at the
Lorraine Hotel, where Reverend Martin Luther King was assassinated. Tammy said
“it was like drinking American history from a fire hose.”
Yom Kippur at
Temple Israel. Memphis has several conservative and orthodox synagogues.
Given our religious traditions we contacted the only reformed synagogue in
Memphis, Temple Israel. They graciously opened their doors for us.
Temple Israel is impressive. It is the
largest and oldest congregation in Tennessee, and one of the largest Reform congregation
in the United States. It is a major resource for the Memphis Jewish community with
its multitude of facilities including a Hebrew school,
Beit Midrash (study hall), event
space, and museum. Services are broadcast over the Internet. (Temple Ohabai
Shalom in Nashville, where we attended Rosh Hashanah, also broadcast services.) Temple
Israel is located in a treed suburban community called Germantown, not far from
our Hampton Inn hotel on Shady Grove Road. (Coincidentally, we live not far
from Germantown and Shady Grove Road in Montgomery County, MD.)
Rabbi Micah Greenstein conducted a meaningful
service. We liked the mahzor (prayer book) and the passages that were read. The
service was mainly in English with well-known passages recited in Hebrew.
Congregants fully participated in prayers and readings.
We were surprised when Rabbi Greenstein
announced dinners and lectures for each of the eight nights of Sukkot (the harvest festival): benefits of a large congregation. The
downside is that with so many attendees, the service can feel a bit
impersonal to guests.
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“The semicircular
design of the 1,500 seat sanctuary implies that there is another
half beyond its confines: … for the community at large.”
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National Civil
Rights Museum. We thought we were not violating the sanctity of Yom Kippur
to visit the National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorrain Hotel. The museum is
attached to the façade of the Lorraine Hotel, where Martin Luther King was
assassinated by James Earl Ray. Reverend King’s hotel room has been retained as
part of museum.
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National Civil
Rights Museum at the Lorrain Hotel
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Jesse Jackson,
Rev. Martin Luther King, and Rev. Ralph Abernathy
on the balcony (Associated
Press)
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Civil rights leader Andrew Young and others standing on balcony of Lorraine motel
pointing in the direction of assailant after assassination of civil rights leaders.
Dr. Martin Luther
King, Jr.,who is lying at their feet. (Life Magazine)
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The museum is world class.
Multi-sensory displays, large scale
artifacts, news film clips, introductory movies make for a riveting
experience.
Museum attendants
insisted that you walk through the rooms of the museum in order. On the floor of
the first room is an outline of Africa's western coast and wide arrows showing the movement
of slaves from Africa, to West Indies and the Americas. Inside the arrows are
the number of Africans abducted and moved to
the Americas—12.5 million in total, 5 million
to Brazil alone, 1/2 million to the United states. Two million died in-route. [See
http://www.slavevoyages.org] To the right
in a small alcove are statues of five Africans stripped to their shorts, seated and shackled to a wood
plank floor on a slave transport ship. The wood planks give a little as you walk on
them, and you can hear the men’s faint breathes, moans and coughs.
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| Four (of the five)
statues of Africans on a slave transport ship |
Fast forward past the Civil War, emancipation proclamation, the KKK, Jim Crow laws, to the civil rights movement of the 1950’s
and 60’s that we are more familiar with. It was the era of Freedom Riders and sit-ins and brutal responses. You walk through room after room
with film clips showing white men and women humiliating and brutalizing black men and women. In one scene you see black men and women
sitting on whites-only seats at the drugstore counter. After throwing food at them, white men like your
next door neighbors turn into thugs dragging black people to the floor. And
you see worse. The museum has full-sized replicas of the bus on which Rosa Parks defied
whites-only seating and a fire bombed Freedom Riders bus going to Birmingham
AL. We spoke with a parent who told us that his 12-year-old daughter asked,
“Dad, this didn’t really happen, did it?”
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| Sculpture of
sit-in at the counter and film clip on wall |
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| Replica
of burnt Freedom Rider bus. |
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Photo,
near Anniston, Alabama, of one of two Freedom
Rider buses
en route to Birmingham.Burnt
by a white mob
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Bull
Connor, head of Birmingham’s police, told the Klan that the
police would stay away
from Birmingham’s bus terminal for
fifteen minutes after the Freedom Riders arrived,
enough time
to severely beat James Peck, and others, into the hospital.
This
picture was reclaimed from a local journalist whowas
beaten
and whose camera was smashed.(Federal
Bureau of Investigation)
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Martin was famished. His last meal was a couple of beers late afternoon
yesterday at the Hopson Planation listening to Mr. Birdsong tell us about life
in Clarksdale. We returned from the Civil Rights Museum situated south of Beale
Street in downtown Memphis to our comfortable neighborhood on Shady Grove Road.
Small businesses are opening up in the neighborhood around the museum. We ate
at Seasons 52.
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Bridges Hall being
escorted to a white New Orleans school
by federal marshals.
Court-ordered
integration of New Orleans' schools in 1960. Hangs outside the
Oval Office,
Norman Rockwell
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Day 17, Thursday
9/24, Our Second Rest day
Another day of rest: a good way to think about what we have seen and update plans and rest for the next leg of our journey. Hung out at the Hampton Inn. Caught up on writing and reading. Got carry-out
from Houston’s that reminded us of the Houston’s, our neighborhood dinning spot and travern
that we miss since it closed a few years ago. Shopped for provisions at Fresh Market and Whole Foods.
Day 18, Friday,
9/25, Rock n' Roll
Today we are taking in the lighter side of Memphis—the birthplace
of rock n’ roll, and tasty ribs and brisket.
Sun
Studios. We headed west on Poplar Avenue which runs from our hotel on the
east side of Memphis all the way to the Mississippi River. Sun Studio is in an
unassuming building on the corner of Union and Marshall Streets. It is said
that "If music was a religion, then Memphis would be Jerusalem and Sun
Studio its most holy shrine."
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| Sun Studio at &06 Union Avenue |
We netered into a small room with a counter and a few
chairs and small round tables. The room
can barely accommodate the 20 people that are going on the tour. You can buy a
beer or soda and souvenirs at the counter.
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| Sun Studio lobby |
The recording studio is still in operation. One of the recording engineers is our tour
guide. To start the tour you go up a narrow staircase into an area with display
cases and Sam Phillips’ DJ booth at WREC radio.
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| Our tour guide and
the display cases |
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| Sam Phillips WREC
DJ booth |
Sam Phillips with his friend Marion Keisker opened the
Memphis Recording Service in this building that later became Sun Studios. His
policy was to record anyone who walked in from the street who could pay a
nominal $4 fee. Sam continued working as
a DJ at night at WREC until he could support himself through the recording service.
His Memphis Recording Service did not press records, instead he sold recording
to large record labels like Chess Records in Chicago.
Our tour guide takes us through the displays that are of course
in chronological order. They contain some pretty neat stuff, among many other
things, BB King’s Guitar and a poster for a Howling Wolf -- Muddy Waters battle
of the blues musicians.
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| BB King's Guitar |
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| Howling Wolf -- Muddy Waters battle
of the blues musicians |
At the Ike Turner display, we learn that although his
behavior toward Tina Turner has tarnished his reputation, he was a native
son of Clarksdale MS (see our Clarksdale write-up), and is an important contributor
to Rock and Roll history. Turner’s band “Kings of Rhythm” recorded “Rocket 88”
the first rock and roll song to reach #1 on the Billboard R&B charts. Ike
Turner worked out the song on the piano and Jackie Brenston, the saxophonist
for the band, was the lead singer. The song was recorded at Phillips’ Recording
Service and then sold to Chess Records, who released it under the
name of “Jackie Brenston and his Delta Cats”.
The success of the record prompted Phillips to start his own record
label, Sun Records.
( "Rocket
88" on you tube mysteriously interspersed with scenes of Bette Page, “queen of
the pinups” "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gbfnh1oVTk0 )
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Ike Turner and his
Kings of Rhythm success with “Rocket 88” prompted Phillips to start Sun
Records.
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After each display case our tour guide plays
recordings of the music he has just talked about. Near the end of the tour we asked
our guide if Sun Studios was selling the recording of this veritable history of
rock and roll. They used to, but now it can be picked up from Amazon—“
Best of Sun 60th Anniversary Compilation” at http://www.amazon.com/Sun-60th-Anniversary-Various-Artists/dp/B007A05ECW .
We go downstairs to the
recording studio. On the way we pass Marion Keisker desk.
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| Marion Keisker
Desk |
Marion Keisker was Sam Phillips assistant. She is
credited with discovering Elvis Presley. Marion was the first to record Elvis when in 1953 he came to the studio to record two songs for the $4 fee. A year
later on her suggestion Sam Phillips brought Elvis in to record the song “With
You”. Although Sam was dissatisfied with the recording, they continued to work together, and eventually Elvis and musicians Scotty Moore and
Bill Black recorded a sped up version of the song “That’s All right”, which became
the first of five singles Elvis released on the Sun Label.
Sam Phillips and Sun Studio
developed the rockabilly sound by mixing rhythm and blues with country. Elvis
success brought in other artists such a Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, and Carl
Perkins. We could go on and on with the stories about the notable musicians
that Sun Studios recorded and promoted. If you’ve grooved to rock n' roll, you
shouldn’t miss Sun Studio.
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The “Million Dollar Quartet”: Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, Elvis Presley, and Johnny
Cash
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Pictured: (top) Marion
Keisker; (left to right) Elvis
Presley, Carl Perkins, Marion Keisker,
and Sam Phillips
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Central BBQ. We
were hungry after a long day touring rock and roll Jerusalem. Let’s get some of that
famous Memphis BBQ. Central BBQ rates at the top of the best BBQ joints in
Memphis. They have 3 locations. We drove to the one on the east side of town at
4375 Summer Ave. We parked. While walking to the front door we looked
up and saw several nomad-clad men on the roof doing what we construed to be
smoking brisket and ribs. Mmmm!
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| Central BBQ insignia |
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| The counter at
Central BBQ |
Let’s not
beat around the bush. Martin ordered the ribs with a dry rub and Tammy ordered
the brisket with spicy sauce. The plates come with 2 sides. We ordered beans and slaw. The
dry-rubbed ribs were very tasty. No need to wet them down with sauce. Tammy loved the lean, slow smoked brisket as did Martin gobbling up the leftovers. According to Tammy's cousin, Don, who smoked a mean brisket himself, all you need is a lean cut of brisket and a smoker. Smoke 15 lbs of brisket for at least 11 hours. Ingredients for the brisket are Don's secret, so far. Ingredients for Central BBQ's dry rub aren't a secret:
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon each: cumin, paprika, granulated garlic,
granulated onion, chili powder, brown sugar;
2 tablespoons: kosher salt;
1 teaspoon each: cayenne pepper, black pepper, white
pepper.
Combine in an airtight container, shake, and store, covered, until
ready to use.
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Downtown: In
between Sun Studio’s and Central BBQ, we killed some time going to the Belz Museum
of Asian and Judaic Art in downtown Memphis.
The museum is on South Main Street. South Main has been turned into pedestrian
way with a trolley line running in the middle. If you have time
and the inclination go the Belz Museum to see the incredibly detailed Chinese ivory tusk carvings and the Judaic bronze block sculptures, intricate metal boxes, and a photo exhibit.
Mr. Belz emigrated as an infant from Galicia Poland to the USA and became a very successful industrialist
who helped develop Memphis.
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| Chinese ivory tusk
carving at Belz Museum |
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| Photo of
grandfather teaching grandson Hebrew clandestinely In Iran |
Day 19, Saturday,
9/26, Graceland
Graceland. We
had debated whether to visit Graceland or not. We didn’t especially want to
visit what could turn out to be a tourist trap to see a gaudy mansion. Are we that effete that we wouldn’t visit the
King of Rock and Roll’s pad?
We head west on route 240 then zigzag over to Graceland
on route 51. We notice that you can’t
drive onto the Graceland estate, instead you park across the street. Parking is
$10. Our suspicions about this being a
tourist trap are raised a little bit. We haven’t bought entrance tickets yet.
We walked across the large parking lot and notice Elvis Presley’s 707 private
jet called “Lisa Marie” parked behind a wall. We take a few photographs against
the wall and then follow the signs to a terminal building to buy tickets.
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| Martin, Tammy, and
Elvis Presley |
Tickets for visiting the Graceland mansion and archives,
not the plane or other offerings, and taking all discounts possible is $68 for
the two of us. We have accepted that we are here, we’re going to see the
Graceland mansion, and not be bothered by any nickel-and-diming. The terminal
is packed with tourist who have come on their own or on tour buses. You get to
Graceland on shuttle buses. While we wait for over an hour for our
shuttle, we walk through the five rooms of the souvenir shop that sell small trinkets up to head-to-toe Elvis Presley costumes.
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| Souvenirs |
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| Elvis Presley's Las Vegas Costumes |
Our group is called to line up for our shuttle bus.
Before we board,
the attendant takes our picture in front a Presley mural. We figure correctly
that we will be asked to buy these pictures in various sizes and shapes at
the end of the tour.
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| Picture taking at mural for later purchas |
Here is the last piece of logistics we’ll talk
about. We are given iPads with straps to
carry them on our shoulders. John Stamos (from "Full House" TV show) narrates the iPad portion of the mansion tour. He directs you from room to room and supplements what the docent tells you.
The tour tells a whitewashed story about Elvis. But that’s OK. This is a memorial to him, not a PBS Frontline expose. What
struck us is that as a young man he was a humble person who attended church and
loved singing gospel songs. In an filmed interview before induction into army he was asked what advice he would give
inductees. The young Presley says—“the advice I would give them is to go the
straight and narrow, don’t act special.” Long live the King.
